1. Will any iron work?

A. Yes, since all irons provide heat necessary to bond foil to fabric. However, small flecks of foil are likely to adhere to the bottom of non-Teflon coated irons, creating a “drag” for pressing purposes. This can be removed by scrubbing with steel wool. Therefore, I highly recommend inexpensive Teflon coated irons, which repel foil and sticky substances such as fusible webs. They also have the added advantage of being lightweight, thus easier on your hand and wrist.

2. How do I clean up my stamps after I’m done applying foil adhesive?

A. Since the glue is slow drying, I usually work for 1-2 hours without worrying about the need to clean-up. Run warm water over the stamps and lightly scrub with any type of soft brush. Lay the stamp face down for drying on an old towel.

3. What care instructions should be given?

A. Wash in either cold and warm water. Line dry or dry flat only; DO NOT machine dry; DO NOT iron foiled surface.

4.  What types of glue will work with foil?

A. Glue must be water soluble and intended for use with textiles; read the directions to make sure water will remove glue while it is still wet. Jane Dunnewold, who introduced me to foil, addressed this question in the Winter 2003 issue of Belle Armoire magazine:

"Elmer's makes a fabric glue but it's too sticky for thin fabric. Aleene's Stretchable Flexible Fabric glue works, but dries clear and is hard to see on printed fabrics.  Jones Tones makes a good adhesive, but it also dries clear and is expensive.  My favorite adhesive is made by Screen Trans Development Company.  It's gray, so you can see it once it is dry. It can be printed so lightly that it doesn't change the hand of the fabric at all."

I sell the glue made by Screen Trans Development Company, as recommend by Jane Dunnewold.

5. Once I’ve stamped an image with adhesive on fabric, do I always need to reapply adhesive before stamping another image)?

A. If you want images to be even in appearance, it is necessary to reapply the glue. It’s possible to get a shadow image if you stamp a second time.

6. Is there some way to remove foil (in case of mistakes)?

A. Once dry, the glue is permanent. Touching a hot iron directly on top of the foil will sometimes remove it, but the dry glue remains.

7. Can mini irons be used for foil?

A. Yes, but they cover only a small section at a time. It’s more efficient to use a regular iron for anything except miniatures.

8.How much coverage can I get from a 4 oz jar of foil adhesive?

A. It depends on the amount of coverage required by your design. That is, it’s possible to get about 100 3” square images from a third of a jar. However, 4” square images would take 2/3 of the jar.

9. My new foil has what looks like scuff or wrinkle marks. Is it damaged?

A. No, small scuff marks do not affect the usability of foil. Each piece of foil can be used multiple times, until no foil is left clinging to the cellophane.

10. How long can I leave the cap off the adhesive jar before it begins to dry out?

A. The glue is slow drying, so you can work for several hours without concern for putting the cap on. If it appears to be thickening, just thin with a teaspoon of water and stir well.

11. Will the glue wash out if I make a mistake?

A. Usually, the glue will come off if you wash it while still wet. I’ve had success with cotton T-shirts, but have not experimented on other types of fabrics. Once dry, it’s permanent.

12. How do I store foil sheets? Will foil rub off like gold leaf if I’m not careful?

A.Special care is NOT necessary. Just fold up the sheets and keep them in a plastic bag.

13. Will foil work on stretchy fabrics?

A. Yes. The adhesive is more flexible than fusibles for this purpose.

14. What is the shelf life of foil? Adhesive?

A. According to the manufacturer, foil is good for up to five years; adhesive up to one year. However, I've used adhesive considerably more than one year old without problems – if it seems thick, just thin it with water.